Who's the dag holding their nose?!
Moon light wining and Dining with Laura from CliffBase, Hvar Island - Heavenly!
August 2008
Deep water soloing (DWS) had been a dream coming for awhile for me after being inspired by legendary Chris Sharma. I imagined deep water soling was going to enter a whole other dimension of climbing for me – more fear? fun? and adrenaline! I knew there was one place to hit up where I thought there would be guaranteed warm weather and water, the Dalmatian coast of Croatia! It wasn’t long before 'Google' found a sweet looking spot called ‘Cliffbase’ on Hvar Island where it looked like a deep water solo-ers paradise away from the crowds! Sounded too good to be true!
I flew into Zadar from Dublin with the aim of climbing in two spots – Hvar Island and Paklencia National Park, which is renowned for multi-pitch routes. I met up with a great adventure mate, Laura C (Clayton) in Split before we boarded the ferry across to Hvar Island. With a tight budget, packs full of climbing gears, and a tent we started out hitching mission across to the South side of Hvar Island where ‘Cliffbase’ is located. As we walked along the coastline path into Cliffbase our jaws dropped, a 200m traverse of crowd-free deep water soloing with aqua clear water ready to be splashed! It was 'ON!'
Laura ( sporting the famous yellow dress that scored us our rides!) entering into Cliffbase.
You could spend weeks at Cliff base - It is a climbers realm of cool rock formations, full of grips and amazing lines ( if you have the guts!) There are about 20 known DWS routes, up to 20m from grades 5a to 7a. We played on the traverse for awhile to get our head around it before stepping up to do some higher stuff, and get the buzz on! I can tell you a lot of shrieks were heard! Some young dude ventured too high and must have got to 60m plus, and ended up having to get rescued - not to be repeated!
The sign as we entered cliffbase!
It was a crazy cool week of waking up to crankin' sunrises, hearing the waves gently shape the rocks, cicada's humming, climbing in bikini's, eating ludicrous amounts of crackers, tuna, gherkins, and 'happy cow cheese', and just being stoked on life! Evenings were spent sharing adventure stories and dreams with Laura over a cheap bottle of vino. The mighty plan from those evenings is to hitch around the circumference of the globe whilst exploring, hiking, climbing and kayaking and making a documentary out of it! It was pure bliss to be over looking the sea, stars and full moon and to just BE. Over the week we met some rad Czech and Slovenian climbers and I got fully inspired to go and climb the crazy blocks in the Czech Republic.
What I loved about 'Cliffbase', apart from the friendly and relaxed owners Mero and Kalarina, was the freedom of choice you had. Whether you were up for a hard core time of DWS, or sport routes, or swimming, or snorkeling, or chillaxin' or a mix of it all, it caters for all. And as your able to cook your own kai (food) there, and be away from the maddening crowds that European climbing spots sometimes have - it really is a tranquil serene place. With a small climbing fee to pay and a reasonable rate for Cliffbase accommodation, it will for sure go down in my books of an 'Epic' climbing spot, friendly culture and great vibe all round!
Lovin' the Hvar DWS! A wee spot of paradise...
It was definitely a shock to the system arriving back into Hvar town well renowned for Dolce and Gabana, Gucci and Millionaire super yachts. Onward bound though we jumped the ferry back to Split,got our thumbs out, and headed for Paklencia National Park just 46km north of Zadar. Within 10 minutes we were on the road and 4-5 hours later after a few vechcile/bus/walk changes we arrived at the gateway of Paklencia! We dug the tent out and made 'Camp Marco' our home for a few days.
Paklencia is known as one of the top European rock climbing areas and the price we paid for a 3 day pass there, sure showed it! Probably reasonably cheap for a European climber, but coming from 2 kiwi girls who have grown up with a culture of 'Rock on up to any crag and its free ', it was a new culture to absorb! As we entered the gorge thoughts came back to me of Todra Gorge in Morocco... just steep high limestone cliffs surrounding you of multi pitch goodness!!
Laura Stokin' out at the entrance to Paklencia!
Paklencia offers over 400 sport and multipitch routes, soaring as high as 350m and up to 11 pitches long. The park sits between the sea and the mountains of Velebit making it an incredibly beautiful place to climb and explore. It wasn't long before we hit up our first multi pitch up 'Mali-kuk' before the sun got too hot. Should have had a few wires as the bolts were pretty run out.Nothing like a bit of heart-pumping action!
On Mali-Kuk, Paklencia.
Spent a rad few days climbing there absorbing the culture, and again meeting some great Europeans along the way. Although it was packed with climbers we never had to wait for a climb as there were so many routes everywhere! Next aim though was to hitch to the Bohinj Valley in Slovenia to get amongst the mountains and climbing there.
Two campers beside us offered us a ride, so on board an ol' skool BMW we crossed the boarder and got dropped of close to Lake Bled. Slovenia is known as the New Zealand of Europe and I could sure see why. It was much more peaceful and slow... and everywhere you looked was stunning! We found a camping spot up the Bohinj Valley, near to the climbing and ended up spending one of the most freezing nights of our lives shivering our lil' bums off! Stupidly we only had one sleeping bag and mat between us and hardly any warm clothes. Considering we were at the base of the mountains you would have thought having outdoor degrees we would have known better! It was worth it though for the funny conversations had throughout the non-sleep night!
Laura chillaxin' to the maxin'in the Bohinj Valley- this was the climbing we did in Slovenia!
Too knackered and too cold to climb, we opted out and went to a 5 star hotel for all you can eat breakfast! Which would have covered the price of a hostel to sleep in the night before! After 5 croissants, 3 coffees, cereals, and more bread we geared up for a brisk hike to see a very over-priced but beautiful waterfall. Luckily enough we had Laura on the prowl - she's always up for some priceless fun bartering!
The Dachstein in Austria was awaiting for us to climb so thumbs out, packs on, we said goodbye to beautiful Slovenia! I hope to return to Slovenia one day as it really is an outdoor mecca with amazing kayaking, hiking, climbing and hiking and the people are just so friendly!
Hitching on the Motorway in Slovenia- Ha! our longest wait! Wonder why?!
After our first long hitching wait (on a motorway!), we hitched some pretty snazzy rides before Marco and Michi good friends from Obertauern, greeted us in Klagenfurt. "Servusssss..... Oidaaaa....Wie gehtz...Shaizgeil-ing good?!" I was definitely stoked to be back in Austria. We had a good few days climbing at Mountain Hoff where Sepe, Stefan and Barbara joined us before heading to the mighty Dachstein!
Hoher Dachstein is an incredibly beautiful mountain. I always stand in awe. Whether it's winter or summer it provides an adventure playground full of epic climbing and skiing. I teamed up with Garj, local legend mountain guide and friend and had a hilarious day on the rock. A super sweet day had by all, followed by some local brews at the top!
Me and Garj - Ja Sihrrr OIdaaa!!! Zee' Dachstein!
The trip went all too quick and before I knew it was waving goodbye to Laura as she headed onto China via Innsbruck, and I caught the train west to meet my whanau (family) in Evian. With a average hitch hike waiting time of 12 minutes, and 15 car rides later we managed a super classy girls climbing trip from Croatia to Austria! Maybe the shortness and colour of Laura's dress helped along the way?!
Chur to the Chur Laura for another Tu-Meke trip! It is always a pleasure adventuring with YOU! Thanks to all the Austrian boys for continuing having me to stay and for all the great hospitality. And to all the many drivers who picked us up along the way. Danke Schone! We are forever grateful. x
Belaying from inside the Tombstone @ Cliffbase
Endless Amazing Austrian Hospitality! Haffi- Stefan- Laura- Sepe -Mihi- Charlie- Marco- Barbara- Danke Schon! My faaav' mushroom canooodle!
Lake Bled- Slovenia. Sooooo nice! x
Cliffbase, Hvar Island*
