~*~ Lost in Seasonland ~*~

Bernd. OT, Austria

'Lost in Seasonland', (an article from document snowboard #5 ). This article was passed onto me by my brother when I was 18yrs old and I clearly remember at the time being inspired by  the writers experiences and writing. Over the last 8 years of my travels, I have often thought back to this article in different countries  relating to many of the writers thoughts and perspectives of travelling and to experience it also with my own eyes.....Enjoy the read! :o)

LOST IN SEASON LAND....and of course, sometimes you stop and wonder what you're doing with your life. Like when you have to choose between new snowboard goggles, or between a mountain bike and getting your car fixed because you need it all. When you suddenly wake up and somehow you are 26, smart, talented and still compiling your crap job list.

Crap Job #47 - Carrier of scaffolidng

When your best friend talks about her promotion and what shes having done to her kitchen-- not the kitchen
but HER kitchen. When you are a fully fledged 'grown up' and your parents fridge is still an Aladdins cave
filled with edible treasure, the likes you haven't tasted since the last time you were at home. when a
double bed with a duvet feels like Christmas, Easter and your last 10 birthdays rolled into a piece of
furniture. Sometime when the surf is crap or it hasn't snowed in two weeks and you feel immobilised.... you
get to the point when you are wondering if the next time you'll notice, you'll be 37 and still marooned in
seasonland on crap job #85 and saying to yourself .... "just one more summer/winter and then i'll do
something serious!!"

BUT THEN:

You make a mundane trip to buy a phone card and the setting sun has coloured the mountain snow a brilliant
unearthly vermilion. The unjustifiable beauty of the ocean as the sun sinks below the horizon with you and
your surfboard merging into the scenery. Thats when you realise: this isn't a post card or an advert, this
is YOUR LIFE.

Ballycastle, Northern Ireland

.... You can drop in on your friends unannounced and somebody always has time for a game of chess. Nobody gives a shit how much you earn. The feeling of a body that is naturally fit through your interests without irreplaceble hours that evaporate in a gym.

You get used to the fish jumping metres from where you are bobbing and the jellyfish doing what they do,
absolutely nothing. The utter stillness of the mountains as you ascend on a chairlift. You take it
for granted: the different cultures you are living amongst, just how lucky you are to be living in a
time, situation and society that allow you to do pretty much as you please. Your freedom of movement.

Your FREEDOM.

The most enjoyable part is hindsight. In retrospect you forget about the insects, being broke, being
ripped off, the inhumane living conditions and losing your: stuff, money, bottle or rag.
You remember the individual characters of different countries, the unique colours and light, the tastes,
the textures. How years later the fragrance of a meal projects you through a haze of routine, to a place you
thought you'd forgotten.


Night skiing- Obertauern, Austria

...Most of us eventually find our place to stay. Ironically its not to far from where we started from, the place we thought would be dismal in comparison to the rest of the mysterious world. Your life finds a natural rhythm and you blend into an existence you never thought you could.

And maybe you lose your wonderlust but the subtle changes are still there. The way you can wait for a late flight or train. When you convey your wishes to somebody who doesn't speak the same language without
any embarrasment or ignorance.

That's when your sacifices, uncertainties, and indignities seem to dissolve and it all seems worthwhile. So you grab your pack, kiss your crying Mum goodbye and head off again in search of excitement, inspiration, the unknown and crap job #48.


Lovin' the pow In Obertauern, Austria 09


After the 6 week pow storm - from our flat in Obertauern, Austria. **Bliss**

* Ai * (chinese for love)


Kicker's 'ON'! - Roof top Action @ Le ferme

JULY 2005

I thought I'd share some my thoughts since arriving back into beautiful Aotearoa after 3 months in China working as a climbing guide for Chinaclimb (www.chinaclimb.com), and a snowboarding adventure therapy stint in the beauty French alps. In between times catching up with the whanau (family) in Ireland.

Touchdown into Christchurch airport, tears came down my face. I'm not sure if it was of happiness, relief, sadness or what it was... i guess just a feeling of relief that I was safe and I no longer had to go into the unknown. As I came down the esculator at the domestic arrivals, familiar faces greeted me with hugs and kisses. I felt as if I were dreaming. I no longer had to worry about my heavy luggage and the logistics of it, or the anticpation of where i was going to sleep, how i was going to communicate to other people about the next question I had and what was going to be so new waiting for me around the corner...it all felt so comfortable and so 'normal' i guess. There was such a familiarity as we drove away from christchurch airport of going down streets I'd gone down hundreds of times before, hearing the kiwi accent again, listening to NZ tunes and seeing simple things like the same big tree.

For the first time though even though it was the same, I felt so different. I knew I wasn't the same person I was when I left six months ago. The last six months that have felt like a few years has been a huge learning adventure for me. There has been so many eye opening and mind blowing experiences that I will never forget. As that 'Seasonland' article writes you forget about being broke, ripped off or losing your money, bottle, or rag but you remember the individual characteristics of the different cultures and people you were living amongst. It is just so true. I remember so many times being just so low and stressed from the time and situation that I was in and just wishing I was home...and now as I share my stories I look back and laugh at those times, and see them totally in a new light.


Hangin' with my homies in Chamonix, 2005- Lachie, Brookestars, Andi's and me

I will never forget that crazy month snowboarding in the French alps looking after and chasing Bob around France. Here's just some of the many memories....when he fed both the Frosties cat on the cereal box and the mountain elves...drinking lotsa red wine, eating mass feeds of fondues and racletts, waking up to the bombsite kitchen after Bob had been up in the night after he had found the ladar keys, munched the food and stolen the car and ski-doo keys.... picking him up from the french police and explaining to them we were his carers - (untrained 'snowboarding bum' nurses!), that UNREAL powder day and discovering when we had returned home that he had done the bolt with our all our cameras and cellphones packed in his bag... hitting into that rail and thinking I had broken my pelvic bone and the stress of not having insurance or a ski pass and knowing a huge bill of 1000 euro would await me..... making a massif ski jump on Brooke's birthday over the barn roof (unbelievable carnage and cart-wheeling on my behalf but you guys stomping it!)... Bob's stories of meeting a Romanian girl and planning his trip to Lanzarote and Egypt... recieving phone calls far and wide of where we should pick him up next or pay to what restaurant his next fifty euro food bill... and that morning when he arrived home at 7am with one sock on and shorts...Chamonix roadie...blue bird days...Aguille Du Midi... Annecy....leaving the chalet the next day with none of us having any plans of where to go next....hitching to annecy not knowing whether I was going to make my plane... what a 6 weeks it was. I will never forget it. How many jobs in the world would you ever find like that one?!! All I can say is big cheers Jon, Andy, Brooke, Lachie and Kristin for an unbelievable time in the French alps. Big thanks to Bob and V for making it possible.



*Lovin' the Champagne pow in zee' french alps*

Next mish- CHINA! Landing In Hong Kong, again thinking am I dreaming?! How the hell did i get myself here?!! Huge skyscrapers over towering me... People everywhere.. New smells. Chaos... Traffic... Noise... Streets filled with people.... waking up to a mouse nibbling at my toe... cRazY bus drivers... constant noises of spitting.. my first experience of a squatter toilet..the smell...the dirt...being in a sea of different coloured faces and languages...so many new surroundings and thoughts...where's a foreigner?...trying pigs tongue, chickens intestines, chickens stomach lining, froggies legs, snakes blood and watching my bro eating chicken testicles!! waking up in the middle of night to full on sweats, dizziness and diorehea and feeling so alone.... going to the Chinese doctor and trying to understand what's wrong with me..and what medication he's prescribed me with ...18 tablets a day for a week... going to see Doctor Lily a Chinese herbalist doctor and having 'hot cups' on me... mountain biking through paddy fields and wee villages...the experience of coming across Chinese who had never seen lawoi's ( foreigners) before.. feeling ready to leave and move on as I'm down...


Walking to work, down the alley to Chinaclimb

But then -- standing under a huge waterfall we unexpectantly came across when all my cares and worries of life disappear and being so happy and content of where I was - 'living in the moment' ...bamboo rafting down the river drinking beer and eating parcilloo... tandem biking out to the crags, Yahooo-ing causing a scene through Yangshuo... being utterly blown away by the generosity of the Chinese when they have so little but are so content and love life so much...taking Tai Chi with Master Won...learning about the 'Yin and 'Yang' of staying in balance...bargaining with the locals....absorbing the culture... teaching 'yankee doodle dandy' to children who thrived to learn English... daily conversations with Chinese approaching you with rehearsed speeches.... "halooooo, how do you do? where do you come from? ohhh new zealand...ohhh so very very beeeautiful!!"...climbing to the top of the peak and seeing a 360 view of unreal scenery, feeling the rain and it being so mystical with the lingering cloud...feeling so happy to be alive and living one of my dreams... feeling the wind again for the first time in months....coming across the Yao tribe in the Longshen rice terraces...days climbing at Thumbpeak, Babyfrog, Wine bottle and Twin gates... the weekly thunder and lightening storms... it feeling so exotic...coming across the wee girl who was so happy and content with her x- mas pink tinsel that she wrapped around her wrists... walking past some of the poverty... collapsing at the Hong Kong / China border and feeling so alone and far from anyone I knew....new thoughts and perspectives on life... trying to learn how they see the 'western world' and how they see me....


I love Yangshuo, China!

Again the 'Seasonland' article comes back to me and my thoughts of feeling so lucky and how much I take for granted living in NZ and in a society that allows us to do pretty much as we please....where we have the ability to earn money and have the opportunity to travel and to see new things..where we can have free education and access to good health care , equality between genders, freedom to speak our mind....but then new thoughts come to mind...the beautiful Chinese people are so happy and content with their lives, they have food, shelter, their family, and live in such a non-materialistic society where things and money aren't important... western society can have so many rules, systems and ways of life where materialistic things like cars, fashion, image are amongst us, ..my thoughts are maybe I have too many and my life is too complex...it seems in China they have the ability to have the freedom to do more as there aren't firm regulations like in the west. They live life so simply.


Climbing in Yangshuo. Incredible Sunsets, 2005

China taught me so much. New culture. New thoughts. New experiences. New tastes. I am so stoked for the experience. I am so happy Jonathan that you could share part of it with me. Thanks for coming.

Reality, one week later has sunk in now that I'm home. I miss already the vibrancy and cultures of other people. I remember when I was last in NZ I used to see a sea of Asians in Christchurch. I now see so many white people and see Asians in a completely new light. How they come to NZ and study for three years or immigrate here for life ...and how they cope settling into our ever-so-bizzare way of life.

It is good to be back in NZ catching up with everyone again, and being amongst the sea and mountains. One thing that stands out from the last 6 months is for me to be enjoying and happy where I am...'living in the moment'...not wishing i was somewhere else with someone else doing something different. To enjoy where I am and just BE. The world will always be there to travel, and there will always be new experiences and new people to meet here both here in NZ and overseas.

To live. To love. And to enjoy life and learn from it's experiences.

Climbing with Kalle and Jon  (http://www.beet-route.com/) Thumb peak, Yangshuo

Li River, Yangshuo, China. How's the serenity?! And the rad climbing in the background!



Early morning Raging'  yoga / warm-up to Metallica before skiing!

Annapurna Base Camp **Himalayas** Nepal


Annurpurna Base camp, a natural amphitheatre at 4130m with views of the South face of Annapurna I at 8091m

09 December 2008 - In my element *Annapurna Base Camp*

One of my best friends Zainab from India once told me, "Emi when your as high as the clouds in the Himalayas, you will somehow feel different". I knew what she meant when I reached Annupurna Base camp and hiking above Manali in India in 2006 .

Mountains across the world have always given me so much energy... breathing in clean fresh air, being blown in the elements,being with limited people and sporting a grin from ear to ear! They have always been such a healer and love of my life since my child hood days growing up at Castle Hill in New Zealand.

I clearly remember waking up at 5am at Machupuchre Base camp. The colours on the mountains were stunning. Such bright blue sky against the white peaked snow and watching the pinky coloured sun rise for another day. I remember looking back at Machupuchure and tears silently running down my face as I sent my all my love to mum.


Machapuchure standing tall at 6993m
 ~*~*~*Incredible energy~*~*~*~

The final hour walking up to Annapurna base camp was amazing. I was surrounded by *magical* mountains, with my beautiful NZ/ U.S.A/ Sweedish friends and feeling so at peace from within. It was an incredible 20 hours at Base camp, being amongst the flowing prayer flags, feeling the sun against my skin and soaking up the incredible energy. Thoughts of wanting to do more research of flow and adventure and the impact it has on people came to me.

Our packs weighed nothing compared to the chargin' locals!

Beauty Hessie with local kids

Overall, it was a super amazing trek with the girls after the Sun Kosi Kayak trip and a awesome way to finish in Nepal before returning to Ireland for Christmas.  Incredible 360 views of beauty mountains and bluebird days. We stayed in guest tea houses along the way, got amongst the ginger/lemon tea and dhal bhat, and had a super sweet time with the girls before we all headed seperate ways. I left Nepal fully inspired to get back for more climbing/hiking in the *magical* himalayas. Cheers girls for a trip that I will remember forever!
*Namaste! Ommm*

Laura, Minxy, me, Sopha and Hessie - Kiwi Girls represent! (Where's Anna?! :)

Malaika and me stoked on life... Representin' 'Hanis' eye wear!

Sopha, Laura and Anna hangin' with the local Nepali Groover's.

Route taken: Phedi, Landruk,Sinuwa, Machapuchure Base camp, Annapurna Base camp, Sinuwa, Gandruk, Nayapul.

LIVE your LIFE freely with LOVE

~ A sunset in memory of mum ~

A Tribute to my mum *~Anne Earle~*
27 September 1948 - 31 August 2009

"Go and live your life freely Emmie.
Follow your dreams, seize the day, enjoy every moment.
My role as a parent was to give you roots and wings.
I don’t want to clip your wings, and mop around me....
I am the Now, and you have your Future ahead of you.
Doing what you love is what makes me happy. I’ve seen many a family get sick as they orbited around one person who was sick, and you know what ....they all got sick. This is not my dream for you. Life doesn’t come in these nice neat packages. This year I thought I would finish my job and dad and I would return to New Zealand- it didn’t - this isn’t what I expected to happen. The last thing I want is for you all hanging around waiting for me to die.
So please, Go and Be Free".

Mums bright blue eyes shone in the sunlight as she shared this with me, tears running down both of our faces, and hearing the crackling noise from her lungs with every breath that she took.

Over the last 2 years since being back in Europe to be with mum, I have learnt so much of this most amazing women, whom I am lucky not only to call a mother but one of my best friends. It’s been hard coming back to Belfast every few months and firstly see her lose her hair, her eyelashes, hear that the latest chemo hadn’t worked, and slowly see her lose her independence. She told me very clearly, 'Emmie, I have a choice in the morning of whether I wake up, feel sorry for myself, and count my losses of what I can’t do… OR I can wake up and feel grateful for being alive and for what I can still achieve in my life.
I want to live a life of LIVING."

Everyday rain or shine, she would walk around the Lagan river for an hour, and push her limits of breath to make it to certain trees or benches to keep her spirits high. She was a wonderful listener and always put others first even amongst this cancer journey.

She was a women of Love. A true Inspiration.

At her bed side in hospital last week I looked out to the grey rain of the city and said, "Mum, I wish we could be looking out to sea from our home in New Zealand." She replied with limited breath through her oxygen mask, "Emmie, just be grateful for what we have".

None of us ever know when our time is up.... What I have learnt from my mother though, is that everyday we have a choice to wake up, feel happy and be grateful for LIFE. To live our lives and dreams freely, do what we love, and be true to ourselves. I know at times the journey ahead is going to be tough but I know mum would tell me to hold my head high with dignity and grace, and be grateful for every living moment.

You have taught me so much Mum through your wise, humble and gracious way with people.

"When I look at the sunshine and feel its warmth on me, I know you are there.
When I see rays of light shining through the bright green trees, I know you are there.
When the rain is falling and refreshing me, I know you are there.
When I climb a mountain in any kind of form, you will give me strength
And when the full moon shines - you are with me..."

I will love and remember you always mum.
*Kia kaha. Ka kite ano*

05 September

BallyCastle, Northern Ireland. 07 September 09

*Enjoying Vino/fondue in Evian, Lake Geneva August 08*

*Good timez, Rock n' Roll! - Les Gets, French alps*

 Our whanau, giving mum's ashes to the worlds Ocean - Ballycastle, Northern Ireland

New beginnings with my whanau....

INCREDIBLE INDIA

Local kids, Thar Desert, India

**Incredible India** A world of thoughts and feelings.Simplicity. Adventure. Spirituality. Contrasting landscapes and smells. Filth. Clean mountain Himalayan air. Feelings hard to describe. Skiing. Manali. Prayer Flags. New levels. Rich. Poor. Getting ripped off. Generosity of locals. Chai. Chapati's. Sheesha. Peace. Golden sands. Refreshing water. Humidity. Hand washing clothes. Market shopping. Bucket showers. Holy cows. Yoga. Meditation. Palm trees. Malaika. Yaka kayaks. Mumbai customs. Waiting. Patience. New discoveries. Dhal. Rice. Anjuna trance parties. Zain's whanau. Overcrowded trains. Challenging. Delayed. Excitement. Shit. Monkeys. Violently sick from both ends. Physically exhausted. Long bus rides. Frustration.Wisdom. Basic needs. Values. Morals. Mud houses. Vast desert. Camel safari. Hot pink sunsets. Tourism. Singing. Dhoom macahle. Mohammed. 4 wives. Children. Hinduism. Ganesha. Delhi belli. Rollercoaster bus rides. Flying. Bouldering. Hampi. Dream alive. Chris Sharma. Heat. Bicycling. Bright Colours. Temples. Shawls. Goa. Home. Learning simplicity. Nature. Fishing. Sea kayaking. Sanjay. Mohammed. Goan trance parties. Turtle beach. Goan fish curry. Swimming. Dry bags. Sai baba's. Marijuana. C.d man. Holy ganges. Refreshing. Rafting. Kayaking. Adrenaline. Much needed. Sir Edmond Hillary. cleanliness. Kal na ho nae! Bollywood grooving. Belly Dancing.
New experiences. New cultures. New ways of thinking. New ways of hearing. New ways of seeing life. A new found love and second home. Namaste India! Shanti om.

Sunset near to our home at Patnem, Palolem Beach, Goa

Desert Life - my 24th birthday -Camel Safari, Rajastan, India 2007

Hampi, Boulder-liscious climbing mecca

5 October 2008

Third Adventure back to India and you would think it would be the same same but different, but nope its the same same but same same. Hot and humid, assault of the senses in every way possible from sweet to sour, yummy spices to the most repulsive smell out....to feeling completely dirty and crusty and where a bucket shower feels like heaven on earth! Re-occuring thoughts of how much we take for granted in the western world and how much I've slipped back into my old habits since living a very simple life in Goa in 2006.

There is the same auto rickshaw driver that ripped me off last time, ripped me off again. There is the same Indian man who I drunk Chai with 2yrs ago, who recognised me and we drank chai again. Reoccuring thoughts/feelings of men approaching me asking for.. "would you like extra money?", " I treat you just like a father", but this time feeling very vulnerable traveling as a female alone.

In ways I had forgotten the 'Slowly slowly shanti shanti' attitude where everything happens in good time, even if it does take days or weeks on end. Remembering how much patience I once had gained through living here and now having to re-learn it again as I haven't been able to get a train out of Delhi.

To being absolutely blown away driving back to my guesthouse in a rickshaw, with a hot pink full moon setting over a 12.8 million city, where people from all religions, cultures, rich and poor seem to live a relatively harmonized life...the juxtaposition of seeing extreme poverty next to a four story mansion with 3 BMW's parked outside attached with their own security guards. To being welcomed by Sachin's family into their home for a few days and being completely blown away again by the love and incredible Indian hospitality.

To walking down Main Bazaar in Paharganj and before the shop keeper even has time to open their mouth, I say " Helooooo Miss, where you from?,...100 rupee sari, verrrrry good price for you!",...to us both ending up cracking up laughing. To seeing western tourists in their rags and barefoot with wads of cash in their wallets and a flash camera around their neck searching for enlightenment.

Listening to the latest Bollywood grooves crankin' and dancing down the street, and how excited I get when I find a relatively clean toilet! In the last 2 weeks five bombs have gone off in Dehli, at times feeling not at ease as armed guards and barriers surround me, remembering though to live on.

India trains. Squeezed in like sardines, grotty, stinky, people lying on the crusty floor whilst I try and step over them. Babies crying, ferrel smells of diorehea, fan blowing dust in my face, seater booths that are meant to seat 6 people have double that and more people. Finding my seat has already a sleeping man in it who claims it as his. I'm over it...teaches me again to be more patient. Indians always welcome in strangers, even if it their seat or not. Cramp everyone in - no worries. I feel so westernised, "No, this is my seat, I have paid for it, go find your own. I still have 16 hours left to arriving into Gorakphur, a 3 hour bus ride to the border of Nepal, and then 12 hours to Kathmandu!" I again am reminded and humbled I'm not in my home in NZ. This is just another way and just go with it.

Think I'm over traveling budget styles in India? Although strongly believe in non-air conditioned trains/buses is the only way to experience the side of India I want to see. There's not one other foreigner on the train that I can see. Experiencing it as raw as I can is what I love about traveling. Meeting the locals and doing it simply.

Some days I feel so at home in India and in my element as everyday is such a new and dynamic, colourful experience ... India Never ceases to amaze me. It often comes with extreme highs and extreme lows, but everyday I take away something new and challenging and hopefully give somehow through conversations and laughter had.

Om Shanti


Roof top Yoga in the morning.

*** OM SHANTI OM ***
November 2008

I sip on a hot sweet chai overlooking the Taj Mahal from an overcrowded polluted noisy rooftop restaurant in Agra, still feeling the effects of the spicy cumin egg I ate from the street last night. I feel like I’m in a tranced out state. My body and brain feel super hazy and it’s like I’m walking in a dream. Only two days ago I left what felt like ‘jail’ at the time. Did I really just complete a month of what at times felt like a cult, completely out of my comfort zone, and a whole new perspective on life? Or was it a cosmic illusion of what they told us the world actually is?

The first alarm clock would go off at 4am. I’d roll over trying to block my ears, swearing in my head, trying to fall back asleep, but with 10 other alarm clocks from around the world going off between 4am and 5.30am this proved quite difficult. I’d drag myself out of bed in silence, put on my uniform and walk into the hall filled with 70 other yogi’s from around the world who had all come to do this course for different reasons. The colours chosen for the uniform signified purity and growth- white trousers with a yellow baggy t-shirt. We sat in lines, cross legged, spine erect in silence before our gurus, the Swamis (celibate monks dressed in orange cloth) started talking in a very calm meditative speech about being at ‘one’ with yourself, and the goal of self realisation. We would do about 10 minutes of pranayama (breathing) exercises to control our vital energy before sitting in silence for 25 minutes where we got told to focus on the shining white light between our eyebrows, our 3rd eye, the Ajna chakra. By this stage my mind was already wondering and my thoughts would go to an epic fresh powder run skiing or climbing a rock face, or to friends and family around the world. I would try to focus on thinking of ‘nothing’ and the ‘light’, but my thoughts again would run to: This place is freakin’ crazy! Is this a cult? Why did I come here? Am I really paying to do this?


With the Sai Baba's - Blessings
Next up was chanting. By this stage, the sun had already risen and the hundreds of monkeys and birds outside were already awake. We would sing to Ganesha to remove obstacles from our life and to Hare Krishna, Shiva and the Divine Mother for guidance. After the first couple of days, I got to a stage where I did not want to sing to ‘Hare Krishna’ anymore, or chant ‘Ommmmmm’, or bow down to Shiva, or receive the ‘light of knowledge’ that the Swamis passed around.

I felt so ignorant. I had no idea that I was going to immerse myself in this for a month. I could feel and see myself getting more negative by the day. The feeling of quitting became even stronger. Where had my positivity of life gone? I saw a new side to myself to say the least. I couldn’t work out why I was feeling this way, when yoga is all about ‘peace of mind’. I kept thinking if anybody could see me now, they would be running to get me out of here!

After the chanting stopped, there would be a life lesson read from a book from the Indian founder of Sivananda yoga, Swami Sivananda. Lessons would be taught about the path to happiness, being at ‘one’ with your self, the path to enlightenment or the cosmic energy of the world. At long last it was 8am and it was time for 2 hours of Asana’s (yoga), more pranayama (breathing exercises) and Savasana (relaxation). The English group I was in only had 4 native English speakers; others had come from Iran, Portugal, Israel, Sweden, Columbia, Brazil and Germany. Most of them had been practising yoga for years; I, on the other hand, was pretty fresh to it.


With my yoga crew xo

My body was aching all over after the first week of 4 hours of yoga a day. I found new muscles that had never been stretched before. My Guru, Swami Vishnudevanada, was from the USA. He had committed his life to yoga and its teachings and was now living as a monk in London at the Sivananda Ashram.

At 10am, my rumbling stomach would finally get fed with breakfast after I’d already being awake for 5hours. The ‘Hare Rama’ chanting would once again start before we were allowed to eat. It took quite a while to get used to eating ‘yellow mush’ with rice at this time of morning and sitting on a hard marble floor. We would get served dollops of yellow dahl on a plate by the crew of smiley Indian men who walked past, shouting ‘daaaaaaahl….. you waaaant daaaaaahl?!” While eating, we’d find flies in our water, watch the playful monkeys above us and even the odd rat running past.


Breakfast - doesn't look so flash but I was into it!
Next up was Karma Yoga. My job was to clean the monkey shit (which super stinks) on the rooftop where we had our yoga classes. We’d scrub the roof’s down with water that came out of a hose like a dribble, along with a home made Indian broom (made out of bundled up sticks) in the hot humidity of the day whilst covering up to not show any skin. At times I felt so hot, lazy and over sweeping with the resources we had, compared to the smiley Indian boy who does this as his Karma yoga everyday of his life. He happily sang songs to Hare Krishna whilst he scrubbed every inch of dirt of the rooftop floor. A true example of doing an ‘action’ and not expecting any reward.

Karma yoga on the roof top with Mao and Heidi!

 

By the end of the month we were cracking jokes even though we only understood a few of each others words and he again showed me how much I take for granted in the western world. I’d have a quick shower to get rid of the accumulated dirt and monkey shit from the rooftop floors before getting back into my uniform to hear the next hour’s lecture of the Bhagavad Gita. The Bhagavad Gita has been acclaimed to be a gospel of life offering satisfactory solutions to the problems that beset man kind of all times.

Next up was a two-hour lecture on either the Vedanta philosophy, the human body, the Law of Karma, or meditation techniques. Vedanta is the oldest recorded scripture in the world that was found in the Himalayas before any religions were ever created. We were taught how ‘you are not your body’, ‘nor your mind’, ‘nor your emotions.’ You think you are because of Upadhi (the veil that covers us), but the world and you are a cosmic illusion. We got told about how we have three bodies and that the goal of life is ‘self realisation’. And that in ‘each’ life we go further up the chain to the end goal of ‘Samadhi’, which is where pure bliss is attained and your body falls off in three days.


Me and Mao , my Espania friend.

Satvic foods (grains, pulses, vegetables) are bland, plain and good for us as they keep our ‘mind and body’ pure and calm. As mushrooms (Tamasic food) are grown in darkness, they are not considered good for us as they make us dark and dull. Onions, garlic, spicy and processed foods (Rajasic) over-stimulate the mind making us agitated and restless. Hence the daily grind of eating yellow bland mush and porridge with cauliflower and peas in it. We also got taught the importance of karma yoga, about acting selflessly and not thinking of the rewards given, and about the Law of Karma. For every ‘action’ there is a ‘reaction.’

My bags were ready to be packed after the end of week one. I had just had had enough. I loved the four hours of yoga a day, but for the other seventeen waking hours of the day, it all felt too much and too hard. I approached the French Swami and told her I was ready to leave. She told me that because of ‘Karma Yoga’ I was meant to be here, and that as I had done yoga in my past life, I had something to complete here. I also wouldn’t get my money back, which represented months of summer savings.


"Jaya Ganesha, Om Namah Shivaya"
I started to question my reasoning for coming here. I wanted a certificate so that I could teach Yoga and combine it with skiing and climbing as a way to keep flexible and focused. I also want to create an environment one day where people can get away from their stresses and worries of life and be more aware of ‘living in the moment’. And on a personal level, to gain a deeper understanding of inner peace of mind, gain flexibility and to learn more about preventative health care.

I knew I had to give it one more week and break down each day into little goals to get through. Memories came back from the teachings at ‘Full On’ and especially ‘The Frame’; that however we SEE something in life will effect the direct RESULTS we get. I knew I had to change the way I ‘saw’ it.

The next week we learnt more about Satvic, Rajasic and Tamasic – the three Gunas of the world. Satvic people are happy, calm, pure, contented with their life and have dispassion for worldly pleasures. Rajasic people on the other hand are egotistical, believing that their way if life is the right way and only way. Whilst Tamasic people are dark, dull and lazy! I could see myself at that moment falling into the ‘Rajasic’ category. From my middle class European upbringing, I had a pretty sound belief of how I saw life, what my values were and how I wanted to live my life. In other words ‘egotistical’. And whilst I thought I was very open to different cultures, ways of life and religions through the travelling I have experienced and culture exposure as a child, I suddenly realised I wasn’t.


Getting blessed by the Sai Baba's*


The reasons I thought of quitting were because I didn’t want to listen to what felt like sometimes ‘preaching’ and what I didn’t always believe to be true. I thought, “why do I have to sit here cross legged in silence for a large majority of the day, for one whole month chanting to Hare Krishna, when I know what I already believe and want from life?” I also didn’t want to turn into a new-agey ‘emotionless’ person, wearing excessive beads and chanting OMM . A new thought entered my brain, “Emi - just be open minded, you might even learn a lot from these people. Take it day by day, week by week and take and leave what you want.”

By week three, when I thought that things were more chilled out and couldn’t get anymore ‘out there’, I was in for a surprise. It was Kriya time, which means cleaning your body from the inside out. The seventy of us gathered in the temple garden where we got asked to skull 7-8 glasses of salty warm water as fast as we could. The result would be that within a few minutes, you would violently chuck up chunder spews of all your insides, which meant cleansing it out! After quickly skulling down a cup of warm salty water I was already feeling incredibly nauseous and stopped. A few minutes later I was watching and hearing people from all over the world spewing up in every direction possible. A western outsider would have thought that a good party must have taken place the night before. I was cracking up thinking this is the most ‘whacked out’ thing I have ever seen or heard.


Gota be lovin' it - Kriya time!

Next thing, we started pouring salty warm water down our nostrils, gargling it in our throat and then letting it come out our mouths. I managed this one but couldn’t bring myself to swallowing a one metre long piece of gauze down my throat that reached your stomach to cleanse your oesophagus. The next one was to put a rubber tube up your nose and out your mouth to cleanse the nasal passageway. The grand finale was to put a tube up your anus and suck up litres of water and then flush it out with one large hit! Luckily we didn’t get asked to do this, but this is a very common cleansing exercise that Indians do along the Holy Ganges River. I’ve seen the Ganges River and and I still can’t comprehend that this is used as a cleansing ritual. Again I asked myself, ‘ Dude are you for real?’



A few days later we got taught more advanced breathing exercises. We had to snort up through our noses very loudly and slowly, before breathing out a ‘bumble bee’ sound out of our mouths. With eighty people in a room doing this, it was like a swarm of bumblebees migrating around a hive! I was shaking my head in disbelief, trying not to crack up at the sound, while the majority of the people in the room were so concentrated and serious. When I thought things couldn’t get any more funny, we got taught about one of the Bhanda locks, which basically means clenching your anus muscle and blocking off your throat with your tongue whilst holding your breath. This means that air cannot escape from any direction possible, which enables the prana, vital energy to circulate in your body. I tried it once and tried not to laugh as I clenched my bum muscle whilst the Gurus walked around in silence correcting our stance.

We had an hour off between lectures when I’d either endure one of the most busy smelly overcrowded holy cities of India where flock loads of Indians would come on a pilgrimage to see one of the many temples, or get a reality check from home on the internet which was much needed. Asana classes (yoga) would start up again at 4pm where we would learn how to teach Yoga for two hours. Dinner, more ‘mush’ would be served up at 6pm, which I started to really enjoy and look forward to. By 8pm, another two hours of meditation and chanting would start before lights were out by 11pm. The next day would repeat again with this same routine.

On the last yoga class on the final day, I suddenly felt a deep sense of relaxation and peace as I watched the hot pink sun disappear into the hazy polluted clouds. The two hour yoga session felt like a few moments, my bodily movement felt effortless and my body and mind felt so healthy and free. During pranayama (breathing exercises), I felt so aware of every part of my body and the breath that flowed from within me. Something that I had never noticed or experienced before, but that is vital for life.

I was in disbelief when I got called forward to receive my certificate to say that I could now officially teach yoga and that soon I would be out of the locked doors where the ‘freedom of the world’ awaited me. It was the most hard core, ‘out there’ month of my life where, for the most of the time, I felt completely outside my comfort zone. It felt harder than any long mountain climb, or rock face climbed. It pushed my limits in every way possible and stretched my mind and thoughts to a whole new level.


With Cierra, A good canadian friend

It once again made me realise how different our ideas/ways of life in the west can be - so egotistical and materialistic, and how ignorant I was to how many billions people lead their lives which they consider to be so normal, and to me so abnormal. I still feel hazed and dazed as I sit writing this, watching the sun set over the Taj Mahal reflecting over that last month, which felt like a movie or a dream. It hasn’t quite hit me that in a few days time I will be rafting down a river with the New Zealand and Nepali crew in Nepal experiencing a completely new adventure.

At the end of the day, this is what I know I love in life…. new and dynamic experiences where you get stretched in ways you never thought were possible; remaining open to new perspectives and ways of life from around the world and not letting your ego get in the way; wanting to keep a positive attitude at times when it can feel like a dark situation; and keeping focused in the present moment.

I can see the power of yoga and how it has such a deep calming effect on me, whilst remaining a body flexible for my passion of skiing and climbing. I left with a big smile, leaving my new life long friends from all over the world heading in their separate ways.

I can now do a headstand for one minute. Maybe I will reach six minutes (in my next life?) and have the self-realisation that I am not my body nor mind.

And like Ghandi said, ‘Life is a journey, not a destination’.


** Shanti Shanti Ommmmmm ** *

My last night watching the sun go down

Peace Yo!

RoCKin’ out in MoRoCco

                
                               Marco Hilpert              Photo: Laura Clayton






May 2008 
 This article was published in 'NZ Adventure Magazine, May 2010 Issue' My 1st ever ! :)

For seven years I had dreamt of exploring and climbing in Morocco. When it happened last year, the trip not only met my expectations of generous friendly people, amazing cuisine, vibrant and colourful streets, barren landscapes and a climber’s paradise, but so much more.

I flew into Marrakech from London for only 10 pounds on Ryan Air with a good climbing friend Marco, from Austria. Not only was I stoked with the incredibly cheap airfare, but also with the two weeks that awaited us exploring the climbing scene in the Atlas Mountains of Morocco! I knew a lot of trees were going to be planted in exchange for this trip.

As we flew into Marrakech, excitement pumped through me, as the dream was finally becoming a reality! I could see the clay houses beneath me with miles of dry barren desert stretching out before the Atlas Mountains in the far distance. On a very tight budget and a pack laden with heavy climbing gear, our mission was to climb as much as possible in the Todra Gorge and then to hike up Mt Toubkal, North Africa’s highest peak.

Arriving into Marrakech town is just as you would imagine… stinking hot, dusty and overcrowded! The noisy polluted streets were full of locals trying to persuade you to buy their latest tourist trinkets.
It was an incredible atmosphere to experience with the richness of different French, Arabic and African cultures colliding together, a real fusion between North and South, East and West. A magical place of cappuccinos, legendary magic carpets, prayers to Allah, couscous, hookah pipes, croissants and sweet mint tea all in one!




We spent the night in Marrakech and braved the crazy night markets before we met up with another good friend Laura Clayton, whom I had met through my Outdoor Education degree at Christchurch Polytechnic.

It wasn’t long before we were on the road, as we had met a local Moroccan man who generously offered to take us part of the way to the Todra Gorge in his car. After six hours of driving through the desert on a dusty road over the Tichka pass, he left us to get on a taxi to the next nearest town of Tinerhir, the gateway to the Todra Gorge. We spent the night on a rooftop of a hostel, gazing up into the clear Moroccan sky with a belly full of Moroccan tangiene and sweet mint tea.


I awaited the next day eagerly with a huge smile as the moon shone down on my face. As soon as the sun came up, our bags were packed and we jumped into a taxi that took us to the mighty Todra Gorge a half an hour away. As we entered into the Gorge and the taxi came to a stand still, the raw beauty that surrounded me was stunning! The pictures I had seen just could not do this area justice.


          Entrance to the Gorge - a climbers dream away from the crowds!


The contrast of colours between the piercing blue sky, the earthy brown limestone rock that rose up to 300m, and the lush green palm groves next to the snow melt river, was breath-taking. The potential for climbing was huge. No matter where you looked, beautiful rock surrounded you in every direction. And with five other climbers in the gorge that week, we had 6km of gorge to explore and climb to our hearts’ content!


After finding a local climbing hostel, we grabbed our climbing gear and walked into the gorge amongst the goats, in search of a relatively cool place to climb. It wasn’t long before we found some amazing sport routes that we could climb in the shade, completely by ourselves, with only a local hand drawn climbing sketch to guide us!


There are apparently over 400 climbing routes throughout the Gorge, but the potential for further development is huge. You can spend your days climbing multi or single pitch, sport or trad with grades ranging from 5a to 7c plus. And when the intensity of the Moroccan sun becomes too much, you can cool off in the river that runs through the gorge and lap up the quiet serenity!


It was an incredible week of climbing, eating yummy fresh salads, relaxing in the sunshine and getting amongst the local culture of drumming and dancing in the evenings!


                               Mount Toubkal - 4167m

Our next mission, though, was to climb Mount Toubkal and with only a week left, we had to leave this truly special place. On board a local bus back to Marrakech, we once again braved the hustle and bustle before taking the 63km road south to Imlil, the base of Mt Toubkal. Jbel Toubkal, also known as the roof of North Africa, stands at 4167m and is a very non-technical and easy route to do in summer. As it was May, it was a great time to visit Morocco, not only for the cooler days to climb in the gorge but also as an accessible mountain hike up Toubkal with the limited gear that we had.


Waking up the next morning, I wasn’t feeling the best after the spicy cumin coriander flavoured egg dinner eaten the night before, but we packed up ready to go. Again I was completely blown away by the view that surrounded me as we walked up through the fertile green land and the Berber Villages with the snow-capped mountains in the distance.


We followed the river plain up the gorge to the base of the mule track where the ascent of Toubkal began. It wasn’t long before my head was spinning, the intense heat had got to me and I was pretty sick from the cumin egg! Two charcoal tablets later and with the help of team Marco and Laura carrying my pack, we slowly hiked up passing the Berber sherpas carrying western tourists’ possessions.


We arrived at the new Refuge du Toubkal at 3,207m just before dark. I collapsed into bed and spent a pretty rough 15 hours being sick, while Laura and Marco enjoyed a night of hearing other travellers’ tales with the local Berber guides and porters. They summited Toubkal by 8am the next morning, involving a few hours of scrambling and hiking through snow to see a 360 degree view of the Atlas Mountains and the Sahara desert!


                            Laura Stoked to be at the top !

They returned in high spirits to find me curled up in foetal position with a big army pot beside me! The base camp warden, Mohammed, or as we liked to call him ‘Mo-Mo’, had been trying to feed me an ancient herbal concoction of cumin broth that didn’t seem to stay down! A few hours later, we started to make our way down leaving the snow-capped peaks, a waving Mohammed and the donkeys and porters in the distance.

While walking down, I dreamt of returning in winter with touring skis as it looked like some pretty fun terrain to explore. I had heard that from December through to March, a substantial amount of snow fell on Jbel Toubkal. With a few 4000m peaks in the area and two ski field’s, I was definitely up for another adventure back to this beautiful region! Before we knew it, we were back down on the river plain that we had walked along 24 hours beforehand. Massive smiles covered each of our faces as the sun turned the sky into a bright orange vermilion.

Words cannot fully describe the generous hospitality of the Moroccan people we met, the climbers’ paradise found in the Todra gorge with its contrasting colours, or the panoramic views from Mount Toubkal. Added to this: the amazing sunsets, the fresh local food, the melting pot of cultures and history in Marrakech were second to none!

And even though I had cash stolen, got extremely sick and will never eat cumin egg again, Morocco will leave a lasting impression on me for years to come. It is a beautiful rich culture, has stunning landscapes and is truly a mecca for the outdoor enthusiast!



Dressing up as BerBer Locals at the Todra Gorge! Maro, me, Momo, and Nora
*Enjoy living and being in the moment*